The Trends – S/S20

From swashbuckling plaits to texture adventures, the spring/summer catwalks are a treasure trove of inspiration

Braid Heart

When the going gets tough, the tough get… braiding. Or so it seems if this season’s power plaits are anything to go by. From pirate-inspired pigtails to rebellious rope braids, there was an underlying air of cavalier mutiny. Take the wet-look braids at Alexander McQueen by Redken global creative director Guido, with a small braid at the front that was pure Adam and the Ants.

Over at the V&A’s Fashion In Motion: Preen by Thornton Bregazzi show, Jonny Engstrom at Guy Kremer for L’Oréal Professionnel wove raw material haphazardly through the distressed braids for a Celtic warrior vibe. Weathered was also the order of the day at Bora Aksu, where Tina Outen for L’Oréal Professionnel channelled some Frida Kahlo chutzpah with her braids, spritzing L’Oréal Professionnel TECNI.ART 6-Fix throughout the hair to define the texture.

In-keeping with the empowered women theme, Anthony Turner for L’Oreal Professionnel found inspiration in silent movie star-turned communist Tina Modotti for his boyish braids at Erdem. Speaking of which, the swoonsome braid at Dior created by Guido gave us all the feels.

Blown Away

There was a definite return to altogether more high maintenance, #juststeppedoutofasalon ‘dos this season. Central to the trend was, of course, the classic blow-out. Forget ‘carefree’, this a woman who cares. A lot. And she’s got time on her hands to hone her unequivocal aesthetic, that aesthetic being one of unashamed luxury. “The hair is super rich, super glamorous and super dream-like which perfectly compliments the Valentino girl who is uptown, fancy and feminine,” explained Redken global creative director Guido of his luxurious blow dry.

Over at Coach there was another hint of a well-heeled Sloane as Guido added in a big, bouncy quiff to his blowdry. Meanwhile, pushing the sumptuous texture by Guido that was seen at shows like Ralph Lauren and Chloe a little further, Tina Outen for L’Oréal Professionnel decided to open up the face and reveal the models’ features by sweeping the hair back at Rejina Pyo.

But it was Jack Merrick-Thirlway’s take on the trend that we really put our money behind. Stepping out from Neville’s Hair & Beauty to take the backstage helm at Jimmy Paul for L’Oreal Professionnel, he set about creating his Hello Kitty-meets-Bardot beehives. “There’s obviously a big ‘60s influence here with individual styles for each girl, but the overarching theme is lots of volume on top with flatter sides for a modern profile.” SOLD.

Easy Rider

The age of identikit models stomping down the runway like genetically blessed clones is officially over. After a few years of championing the ‘individual’ backstage, it no longer appears to be a trend so much as the norm. “We’re celebrating individuality at Burberry this season,” confirmed Redken global creative director Guido. “The overall feeling is one of richness, a controlled naturalness; it’s a modern, new texture.”

This texture was the starting point at many other shows (often with Guido at the helm) who each added in their own nu-natural nuances. At Ports, French girls were the inspiration for the tousled, cool-girl texture which Guido side-parted and tucked behind the ears. French cool girls also stormed the hair stations at Givenchy, where Guido gave some of the girls a chop for a “tomboyish, easy vibe”.

At Joshua Kane, the theme of Mythical Creatures – fantasy beings that embrace mystery, power and elegance – every model had their own character with individual textured looks created by Darren Fowler from Fowler35 using L’Oréal Professionnel.

Over at Molly Goddard, Luke Hersheson for L’Oréal Professionnel took ‘effortless’ to the extreme with his straight-from-the-shower half ponytail, inspired by the model who turns up to the pre-show test and doesn’t want her hair done; “It’s a ponytail that’s not quite a ponytail, she’s carefree and fun and wants her hair off her face but didn’t bother to pull the ponytail through completely.” Now that’s what we call wash ‘n go.

All images courtesy of Redken and L’Oréal Professionnel.