Fuller, thicker, fatter, better

One of the biggest complaints heard in UK salons is that of fine hair with no oomph. Well, our experts heard you – and here are their top tips, straight from the salon floor!

Blow dry with feeling

“A good blow dry will help with volume. Never try and blow dry your hair from wet, your hair should always be blasted dry evenly so the hair is slightly damp. At this stage the product should be applied. Using a volume spray directed at the root apply evenly throughout the hair. Once the product is applied then you can really start to blow dry. Tip your head upside down and blast dry until bone dry. Drying your hair upside down will direct your roots in the opposite direction and give you amazing volume. This tip will give you a smoother, yet voluminous look.”

Michael Young, Hooker & Young

Start with this root manoeuvre

“Volume starts and ends at the roots. If environmental elements have flattened your hair, resetting the roots is the main element to achieving a fuller look. Take a hairdryer, with nozzle attached, and using horizontal sections beginning at the parting, dry the root in the opposite direction of the hair’s natural fall. Drying against the natural part will, when the hair returns to its regular style, have much more volume and shape as you have effectively dried the root in wrong direction – it creates a fuller look. Repeat this in horizontal sections throughout the head, finishing by turning your head upside down and applying Redken Wind Blown 05 Dry Hairspray throughout to leave a fuller, lighter style.”

Tom Connell, artistic director at Trevor Sorbie Salons

Apply a little colour magic

“You can add the appearance of texture and thickness to hair (especially good for bob lengths) by creating a perimeter section around the hairline about 1” thick and applying a tint that is two shades darker than the overall colour. It adds the illusion of depth and is a really quick and easy technique that’s great for finer hair textures.”

Heather Baker, Masters Of Craft, Leeds

Find the right cut

Search out Scott Ade at the lovely Larry King Salon in London – he is known for his iconic ‘thickening hair cut’. “Essentially my cut is all about people with fine hair moving away from having to load it up with products or being forced to have a boring blunt cut with no layers,” he explains. “Loading the hair with products often makes the hair feel heavy and sticky and needing to be washed everyday. And while blunt cuts can make the outline of your hair look thicker, they often make the top lay flat and hang heavy, making fine hair look limp and lifeless.”

Scott’s cut turns this theory on its head. It’s an evolution of a ‘70s shag, building in lots of layers to create mass in the mane. “I cut heavier, shorter layers around the front and sides where the hair is often weakest but balance with choppier, longer layers at the back,” he explains. “The trick is to find the perfect balance of layers for each individual client, adding the perfect amount for the client’s hair while still complimenting their face shape. The end goal is to create width in the lengths of the hair versus height in the roots, which is what people commonly perceive as volume.”

Get a little help from a (fake) friend

We won’t tell. A few clever extensions might make all the difference (they don’t always have to be about length you know). Something like Great Lengths GL Tapes work to fatten up fine and flimsy locks in a flash, and can be applied in a lunch break. What’s more, they last up to six to eight weeks before you need a bit of TLC back in the salon.

At The Butterfly Effect in Louth, Helen Richardson uses the Remi Cachet Half Weft, as you get 65g of hair in one row. This means less of the head is being used and so the extensions are less visible but giving maximum impact on very fine hair. Finish with a few soft, slight layers for a perfect natural blend. ”Clients love them as they are quick to fit, and because it’s a weft, it sits nicer than individual extensions that can appear ‘strandy’ in fine hair,” says Helen.

The full fat follicle fillers you need to know…

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