Summertime… and the grooming is easy! Now the sun has returned, there’s something very enticing about ditching the dryer and letting Mother Nature style your strands… until you catch your reflection two hours later and see you’ve morphed into a less-than-fabulous floozy of frizz.
Well, not on our watch. We’ve been on the phone with some of the best hairdressers in the UK – we’ve dubbed them the Layered Air Force on this mission – to quiz them on fighting the frizz while letting our lengths get waved by the wind. Their top tips on air-drying like a boss follow – step away from the irons (for now) and learn the essentials. Air Force DONE!
Throw in the towel
“Drying your hair with the same type of towel you used on your body can damage the hair cuticle, leading to frizz and unwanted knots,” reveals Steve Rowbottom, creative director at Yorkshire salon group Westrow. “Instead, use a soft microfibre towel and gently press it against the hair.”
Forget me knots
After removing any excess moisture from your hair, use a wide-toothed comb to brush out the tangles. “Remember to start in small sections at the bottom of your hair and work your way up, which is much more gentle on the hair,” says Westrow’s Steve Rowbottom.
Don’t go naked
To get the best results when air-drying hair, products are key and the only fighting chance you have of preventing air dried hair from becoming frizzy. “Products will also help create the right type of movement in air-dried hair,” advises Matthew Curtis, who works at New York and London Fashion Weeks and has possibly some of the most gorgeous salons in the UK.
Try a new-gen air drying product straight from the salon
“There are great new products that cater to air drying you hair,” admits Jonathan Long from Lockonego London. He points to Redken’s new No Blow Dry range, which includes three air dry creams and launches in June. We can also recommend Bumble and bumble’s Don’t Blow It (h)air styler – a new version for thicker hair is launching in June, too.
Do the twist
If your hair is naturally wavy or curly, try a technique called twist drying. This involves twisting hair with fingers and mousse, crème or a sea salt spray to manipulate the natural shape. “For a more textured finish, twist small sections tightly, and for gentler waves, twist larger sections more loosely,” says Matthew Curtis. “A favourite product of mine is label.m Soufflé, as it’s so versatile – you can use it both pre- and post air-drying.”
Angel Montague-Sayers, from Sally Montague in Derbyshire and Cloud Nine ambassador, also recommends twisting large sections of your hair around your fingers with a styling cream that has a light hold – she suggests Tecni.ART Spiral Splendour from L’Oréal Professionnel. “This product helps to encourage any curl/wave/movement your hair may have,” she says, “and remember to twist the two front sections away from your face.” For this to work, your hair should NOT be dripping wet, and you’ll need to leave the twists to stay while they dry (Angel also recommends gently tying these up into an Invisibobble while they’re drying).
“Or do what I do, which is to blast the heaters on in your car on the way to work! When your hair is dry; simply tip your head upside down and shake out with your fingertips…”. We’ve also heard of one hairdresser winding all the windows down in her car when driving to work to get the air doing its thang!
Treat AND scrunch
If your hair has a natural texture and it’s long, choose a blow dry balm/serum or curl form serum through the hair, then mix it with some treatment, such as a conditioning hair masque. “Rub together and scrunch all over the hair,” suggests Darren Ambrose, co-founder of D&J Ambrose in Pinner. “Shake it out so the structure falls into place, then either twist random areas around your fingers to enhance the shape, or loosely plait the hair until dry and then shake out for a more boho feel.” A plait you say? Well, read on…
Plaits and buns are your friends
“For the perfect wave, apply Revlon Professional Style Masters Volume Amplifier Mousse and twist your hair loosely into a bun on top of your hair,” says Anne Veck, founder of Anne Veck Salons. “While your hair air-dries, it will create a natural wave.”
Matthew Curtis uses his fiancé as a perfect example of the power of the plait: “She’ll towel dry as much moisture out as possible then run Kérastase Bouffant Mousse through the lengths before quickly French plaiting her hair loosely down the middle of her head and all down the back,” he explains. “Once she arrives at work, she’ll shake this out and be left with a lovely soft wave. She may need to style a couple of bits with serum and hairspray, which she keeps in her bag, but the overall look is always effortless and cool.”
Get slicker than your average
You could just embrace the wet look and work it into your style – it was a huge trend at Fashion Week (just check out the Kenzo and Givenchy shows if you don’t believe us). For this, you can use a good hair oil, such as the classic Moroccanoil, and work into your damp hair for some nourishment, then use a wet look gel (such as Windle & Moodie Thickening Cream or L’Oréal Techni.ART Glue) on top to set it all in place. “Using your wide-tooth comb, pull your hair back off your face and behind your ears,” says Jennifer Linton and Jaye Macdonald, Co-Directors, Linton & Mac, Aberdeen. “The gel will set it in place and you won’t need to fret about frizz, as long as you leave it alone.” This finish is F-I-E-R-C-E with a bold lipgloss (we love Punch by High Definition) or some statement vintage earrings.
Life’s a beach
Oh beach spray, let us count the ways we love thee! The Daddy of all these summer BFFs is the iconic Bumble and bumble Salt Spray, but if your hair is bleached or dry, look out for one that’s got a little more TLC in it, such as its savvy sister Surf Infusion, which is an oil-and-salt-infused spray. For a little texture and hold, try L’Oréal Professionnel Tecni.ART Beach Waves, which helps create sexy, tousled waves with a natural-looking matte finish. Simply spray on then scrunch to create perfect beach hair.
Sleep on it
If you’re after Instagram-ready un-done waves, try braiding your hair loosely or wrapping hair in a bun on the top of your head… the night before! This will also stop hair from getting knotted in the night. “In the morning, just release hair and rake your fingers through gently to blend the sections together,” says Westrow’s Steve. Et voila!
Ask your hairdresser for tips – they know!
“If you want to learn more ways to dry your own hair, ask a reputable hair salon if you can attend a training night where the assistants are educated in drying techniques,” suggests Matthew Curtis. “You’ll hear the processes explained step by step, and can take this away to use in your own styling regime.”
Indeed, at salon-of-the-moment Larry King, is running personalised air dry tutorials to coincide with the launch of Redken’s No Blow Dry range, so book in for a personalised masterclass from June.
OK, use your hairdryer – but this is just a little cheat!
“For straighter hair, blast your roots upside-down for a minute or two,” suggests Joe Hemmings at Bloggs Salons in Bristol. “Just lifting the hair off your scalp will help with root lift.”
And one final warning… fingers can be your foes!
Frizz is often caused by your fingers, pulling through hair or playing with it too much. So, remember to sit on your hands every time you want to touch your hair!0